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Saturday, June 29, 2013

InterRail 5–Salzburg is even better than the Sound of Music

Next stop Salzburg via Zurich. Greeted by a disastrously grey day, I wander across Wiener Strasse to find my “Strawberry Hostel”, then, after deciding to explore, left the safety of cover to walk along the river.
The heavens opened up but the trees protected me and like an oasis in a desert, a brasserie in a storm revealed itself. The Café am Kai was the perfect answer to my dreary-weather woes, with a covered veranda, cheap frankfurter and good beer, not including the great view a long the river to the castle. My prayers had been answered.
On top of all that the friendly clientele at the next table, Salzbergians, help me to decipher the menu, order what I needed, and left by warmly saying “I hope everything will be ok now you’re two servants have left”, one of them returning wearing a blue cagoule adding “and now you can remember me as the blue crazy man. Have a nice trip".
And, I did indeed have a nice trip. Feeling energised in the morning I decide to no longer suppress my love for the Sound of Music and Google key areas. (I wasn’t going to pay 37€ for a two-hour tour.) I walk to the Mullner-steg1 via the Allee der Gerechten2, in commemoration of those who saved or tried to save Jews during the occupation, and arrived at the Mirabellgarten. Apparently part of the Do Rei Mi scene from the sound of music, it offers a picturesque view of well-kept gardens.
In continual pursuit of my musical adventure, I make it over to the Hofstallgasse (The Festival Hall) where the end concert scenes were performed and then up to the Nonnberg nunnery. Sound of Music fan or not, this little nunnery is worth a visit. A small spiritual oasis surrounded by mountains and dominated by the Schloss2 it still manages to stand out in its own distinctive charm.
Now that my spiritual health had been dealt with and key scenes from my favourite childhood film had been visited (well third favourite after Mary Poppins and Beauty and the Beast). Well after that, I deliberate over Schloss or back to the Hoftsallegasse. Feeling this overwhelming desire to a) not climb up to the castle and b) get more involved in the musical culture Salzburg exuberated at every corner, Hoftstallegasse it was. Here I learn more about the annual Salzburg festival (I may sign up for Gold Membership at a mere 50,000€ -  or not)but I may at least return for the festival.
After this, I stare up at the Schloss one more time to be convinced that Café Tomaselli was more for me. As the oldest “Viennese coffee house” in Austria, with a waitress who carried cakes to my table and a waiter who guessed I was from Newcastle, it was the perfect place to eliminate writer’s block. It was also the perfect filler before ending my night in Salzburg at the Dom for a Mozart concert.
3:30 am however and the dream is broken. Time to move on to the next destination.
1. Bridge
2. Castle